There is nothing better than the freshness and taste of freshly harvested organic potatoes (potato lover speaking). Plant potatoes at home allow you to enjoy a greater variety and consume them at their point of maximum freshness. And it’s very simple, you only need a pot.
Not long ago we talked about all the requirements of growing potatoes, but in the case of planting them in pots or planters the methodology is somewhat different; By having less space, we need each potato plant to give us its maximum production, and for this, it needs some help. Here it goes.
Potato planters are specially designed to get the highest production of potatoes in the minimum possible space. A small patio, a balcony or a corner on the terrace in the garden are more than enough for a more than decent production.
What materials do you need?
A potato planter or a textile pot of approximately 40 liters.
The universal substrate or good compost.
7 steps to Know How to Plant Potatoes from Eyes
Place the potato tubers in an aerated and lighted place.
From February to mid-March, place the potato tubers that you want to plant in an aerated place with light, in this way they will germinate (use potatoes from organic farming, since they will not carry compounds that prevent or delay germination).
Choose the best buds.
At three weeks, choose the three tubers that have the largest buds.
Prepare the pot to plant the potatoes.
Unfold the bag, place it in a sunny place.
We add substrate and place the tubers.
Place a layer of about 30 cm of the universal substrate or compost (occupy about 1/3 of the bag) and place the sprouted tubers on top separated. Be sure to place them with the buds pointing up!
Finish covering the potatoes and water.
Cover it with a layer of substrate or compost and water until all the substrate is moist. It is important to simply cover them and do not fill with substrate up to the top of the pot. You will need this vertical space later.
We will always reuse as necessary to keep the soil always humid but avoiding water stagnations (for this the textile pots go very well since they drain to the perfection the excess of water). A flooded soil will only bring us problems of fungi and other diseases.
Trick: As the volume of the substrate of the pots is not usually very large, the water evaporates faster. A good practice is to use an organic mulch, such as straw, which will keep the soil moist for longer and its decomposition will provide nutrients to the plant.
We add substrate as the plant grows.
As the plant grows, apply more layers of substrate or compost, about 10 cm (nothing happens if you bury some leaves but you should always leave leaves at the top). In this way, the plant is forced to grow more vertically and to generate more roots and, therefore, more potatoes.
Start the harvest!
When it is time to harvest, you can dump the contents of the bag to collect them all or lift the side cover to go grabbing them one by one.
When we harvest the potatoes?
The potatoes will start to be ready when the plant comes in flower, you can check the quantity and size by opening the side cover to be more secure.
You see that planting potatoes at home is very simple, I did a couple of seasons that I included them in my urban garden and since then they are always a basic.
Do you want to know how to plant strawberries at home but do not know where to start? Do not worry, strawberries are one of those grateful crops, that with a couple of basic cares and a couple of rules (very simple) to take into account, will reward you with the richest strawberries you’ve ever tasted.
How to grow strawberries in pots
The best strawberries that you can try are those grown at home, it allows you to grow them fresh and at the optimum moment of ripening, for sale in the supermarket they tend to get a little green (otherwise they would not arrive in good condition to the consumer) which prevents the strawberry from producing all the sugar it can produce, the more sugar a strawberry produces, the more strawberry flavor it has.
Choose the best variety of strawberries
There are many varieties of strawberries, each one with different flowering times, some bloom once a year, others spend all year giving flowers. But I do not really want to go into that, the first time I planted strawberries I had no idea what variety I was buying, and the truth is that they came out great.
Over time, I have been trying new varieties, but never for this type of characteristics (how many times they bloom, or if they give strawberries in March or May). I have always chosen varieties that were difficult to find in the supermarket, or because they have attracted my attention because of their shape or color, or simply because someone has told me that their taste is excellent.
Do not mess with these things, care for all varieties are practically the same, choose the one that catches your attention or the most illusion you do.
My favorites are super small, but they compensate with a very intense flavor, they are very productive, and also, if you do not have any light, they are the best. They are practically impossible to find in supermarkets because they do not keep anything well, you have to eat them the same day you take them.
Difficult to find in the super, this strawberry has an incredible flavor, I planted it a year by chance and it excited me. It is medium in size and gives many strawberries from spring to autumn.
The classic, fleshy, large and well-preserved, you can have a few days in the fridge (if you hold without eating) Your taste grown at home has nothing to do with the super, as they are ripe and ready to eat . The super advantage of this variety is that it is fluorescent, which means that it will give you several harvests.
Here, above, schools of more varieties:
Framberry: A delicious forest variety, it looks raspberry.
Fresón: The one that never fails, the one that gives bigger fruits to cultivate them in house implies a great difference of flavor.
Anablanca: They have a light pineapple flavor, very delicious, and they are white. In my garden a couple of seasons ago I always have some.
Planting and growing strawberries
They can take a long time to germinate and it is complicated. It is not recommended for novices in the garden. If you still decide to do it, you should arm yourself with patience and take into account certain aspects of strawberry planting:
The sowing is done in the nursery in times where the temperatures are warm or cold since the seeds need some cold to germinate.
You will increase the chances of germination success if you put the seeds in the freezer a couple of weeks before.
The best time of the transplant depends on the variety that we have chosen, but generally, it goes from early spring to autumn. It is preferable to cut all the flowers and stolons to strengthen the plants at the time of transplant.
General tips for transplant:
At the time of the transplant, it is important to take into account the depth to which the crown is buried, if you bury it too much, it is likely to rot. Look at the drawing below to understand the depth of the transplant.
Do not transplant strawberries where you put aubergines, peppers or tomatoes before since they are sensitive to the same pests as these.
To favor drainage you can add a little agricultural sand or vermiculite to the bench where you are going to transplant.
The space between strawberry or strawberry plants recommended is about 30 cm, but the truth is that in small spaces can be reduced to 20 without problems.
How to grow strawberry
He likes the soil with good drainage and especially organic matter in abundance. Remember to add a good amount of hummus before planting your strawberry.
When choosing the place for your strawberries, it is important to take into account their great predilection for acid soils, with a pH between 5 and 6. Especially important if the plan is to plant them in the soil, we must try to avoid doing so on soils calcareous, since they can not absorb iron well through the roots.
Do you want to know if your soil is calcareous? Take a little soil and pour a few drops of vinegar … If bubbling do you have an affirmative answer? If it is your case, choose better to grow them in a pot.
Strawberries like the sun, so choose a sunny place, with about 7 hours of direct sunlight. However, although it is a great lover of the sun, it tolerates shade well enough, yes, its production will be much smaller.
-12ºC in its vegetative phase. This means that their stems and leaves will survive during the winter in places where the temperatures do not drop below -12 ºC, their flowers and fruits will, but they will bloom again in the spring. So if you live in areas where winter is hard, do not worry, strawberries are too.
0 ºC in the flowering phase. Here you can have problems if you live in areas where there may be sudden frosts in late winter and early spring, as a drop below 0 ° C will kill flowers and fruits. To avoid this, place a greenhouse during the months of February and March.
Optimal temperature, 10-13ºC night and 18-22ºC diurnal.
Pots to plant strawberries
The strawberries need a minimum of 2.5 liters of the substrate to develop the roots well, although the optimum is to give them a little more, 3.5-4 per plant, so they will be more productive.
This pot is the perfect size to plant strawberries at home, also has a system of self-watering, which keeps the substrate moist for longer, which strawberries whistle them.
Although strawberries are a perennial type plant, it should be replaced every two or three years, since over time their production decreases and they become weaker against possible pests. The good thing is that as they are producing stolons they can be replaced with their own “daughters”.
Strawberries are very easy to propagate. It is not necessary to buy new plants when we want to replace them. They can be reproduced by stolon or by the division of bushes.
Stolon reproduction is very simple. The strawberries generate them precisely with this function. The stolons look like stems, but they are much longer and have a kind of “mini plant” on the end. All that is needed is to fix this end to the ground so that it can take root. Once you have rooted you can cut the stem that joins the “mother plant.”
Eye, if what interests you is that the plant focuses on giving many strawberries, it is advisable to remove the stolons that are produced, so the plant focuses all its energy on the generation of fruit.
Care of the fruits
When the strawberries begin to appear it is very useful to put a layer of about five centimeters of clean straw. This protects strawberries from mud splashes when it rains or is watered and the fruit does not come in contact with the ground. This prevents the fruit from rotting, which is what usually happens when the strawberry comes in contact with soil moisture.
It is convenient to collect the strawberries on dry days and when they are fully ripe, as they come out. You only have to enjoy one of the most grateful crops in the garden!
This summer I started to guide you How to Plant Turmeric at Home. These two plants will be part of my interior garden, and will enjoy a sunny corner in my living room permanently. They are two plants that adapt very well to indoor cultivation if you place them in a bright area, they give good harvests with little maintenance and, furthermore, they are tremendously beautiful, they could be used simply as an ornamental plant.
I began to get many questions about the cultivation of these two plants, especially turmeric. So I have compiled a good amount of information about your crop so that you can also get to work.
How to plant and grow turmeric
Things you need to know if you want to plant turmeric
It is a tropical plant
Can not stand less than 15 degrees of temperature.
He likes bright area but the light must be indirect, that does not give him the sun.
It is perfect to grow indoors or in an area with some shade in the garden in temperate climates.
It blooms in summer.
It takes 10 months from sowing to harvest
Harvest: the rhizomes are removed and boiled. Then they are left to dry in a cool and dry place.
How to plant turmeric step by step
When to germinate turmeric
If you grow indoors and you have a bright area where you can place it, you can do it all year round. If you are going to grow it outdoors it is better to germinate it during the winter in the interior and take it out around March-April.
Turmeric germination process
To force the germination, you can place the rhizomes in a dish with water, to me this system works very well, we simply add a little finger of water to the dish, when it dries I leave a couple of days without water and then I add again.
In cooler areas or seasons, where the water does not evaporate, simply vaporize the rhizome a couple of times a day, do not add water as they do not like to spend too much time soaking. The objective of this is to prevent mold from coming out since in that case, the rhizome would not be useful.
Once they have germinated, which can vary greatly depending on the season and the humidity even of the state of dormancy in which the plant is found (usually from a few days to a month) it has to be transplanted.
The plant can be made up to 1 meter high, which will require a large pot (about 30 cm in diameter is ideal). But for the first phases, I recommend you make the first transplant to a small pot, wider than deep. It will be easier to keep moisture controlled and move it from one place to another until the plant is well established.
Once it has a considerable size and a few leaves. We can transplant it to its final pot.
When I was investigating the transplant, I saw that there were people who transplanted the rhizome. But I’ve always found that the plant goes much faster when you let it stick its head out. He likes to have some light.
Care of turmeric while growing
He likes a humid environment but not puddled. Terracotta pots work perfectly, especially indoors, as they allow better aeration. And you know, always always, the pots with holes in the base. Do not let the soil dry between waterings.
It likes a soil rich in organic matter, but an excess of nitrogen fertilizer will cause it to develop few rhizomes. The best solution is to use earthworm humus or compost periodically to provide the fertilizer you need.
Option 1: Earthworm humus or balanced organic fertilizer diluted in irrigation for two weeks.
Option 2: A handful of solid earthworm humus or compost on the substrate once a month.
Place the plant in a bright area, but without direct sunlight or the leaves will start to burn.
The turmeric plant does not usually have pest problems. The only thing that can happen during the germination process is the following:
That does not germinate.
That rhizome mold
In both cases, it means that the rhizome was not in a state of dormancy, but had dried too much and was no longer viable to germinate. In both cases what you have to do is discard it and try again with another.
The harvest of turmeric
Turmeric is ready to harvest when the leaves and stem begin to turn brown and dry, this usually occurs around 7-10 months after sowing, which is when the dormant period begins. But do not worry, after a few months, the plant will re-sprout as if nothing had happened.
If it is the first year that you cultivate turmeric, and you meet any of the following conditions:
In your area, the soil does not freeze in the winter months.
I recommend you do not harvest the rhizomes, simply cut the stems and let your plant “sleep” during the winter months. In this way, you will be able to establish it and obtain many more crops in subsequent years.
Take the stem and start, will come out easily dragging the rhizomes. Do not harvest everything and leave a few rhizomes in the pot or on the ground, they will be happy to sprout again in a few months. For those rhizomes that you leave in the pot, you can cut the stems, which remain dry and withered during the months of dormancy.
With the rhizomes that you have harvested, cut the stems a couple of centimeters above the mass of rhizomes and wash them well.
How to preserve turmeric
You can freeze the rhizomes or keep them in the refrigerator in an airtight topper.
So that it lasts an eternity and a little more you can make your own turmeric powder. Put the freshly washed rhizomes in a pot of water and bring to a boil. Cook over low heat until you can easily pierce them with a fork (depending on their size, this can take 45 to 60 minutes or more). Drain the cooked rhizomes and let them cool a little. Then, rub them with your fingers to remove the skin.
Cut them into slices and let them dry in the sun or with a food dehydrator at 140 degrees until they are fragile and break when trying to bend them. Once dehydrated, it is very easy to make them powder with a mortar.
By the way, this whole process is best done with gloves, otherwise, you’ll end up with yellow fingers
How to Protect Plants from Winter wind, the intense rain and the cold can be a challenge for your plants, especially when it happens like the winter season. The plants remain as out of place. For this reason, it is important to keep in mind that just as we run to remove the sweaters and scarves, we must prepare our plants to overcome the cold.
How to protect your plants from the winter season
The plants grow more and better: Many of the autumn-winter crops endure up to -1ºC without problems once well established, many of them, up to -4ºC. But until I got a greenhouse I did not realize the difference in growth that it meant, everything grew much faster! What’s more, the greenhouse allows me to plant things that theoretically cannot be planted in the winter months, such as arugula, because it raises the soil temperature by a few degrees.
I have tropical whims: Among them, avocado in a pot, that when I forget to cover it the poor one resents me (see below, in the bubble section).
Extended seasons: Apart from what I have said before the arugula, these techniques allow me to enjoy my summer crops, such as my chili and basil plants for much longer, which last healthy and strong for much longer. This winter I intend to experiment a little and see how long I can keep them, I will inform you.
So although in your area you can enjoy mild winters, I strongly advise you to keep these tips in mind, you will notice the difference!
Get a greenhouse
Certain plants will survive better with the help of a greenhouse that increases the temperature of the soil and air around them by a couple of degrees. This will allow you to extend the life of your peppers -for example- a few more months. And enjoy more productive harvests in very cold areas.
Tip: Place the greenhouse in a sunny area protected from the wind.
There are many options: for the cultivation tables, my favorite is the accordion, which is easy to remove when necessary.
If your crop is in pots, sometimes it is as simple as putting them in the house on the coldest days, or simply giving them shelter in a greenhouse with shelves, like the one in the photograph above.
Decrease irrigation and fertilizer
At this point of the year, it is better to avoid fertilizers of fast assimilation (these should be reserved for spring). These fertilizers are characterized by giving an extra contribution of nutrients that are very easily absorbed and assimilated by the plant, producing a very fast important growth.
The problem with this is that these new buds and leaves of the plant, so young and tender, are very sensitive to possible frosts. The best option, reduce the amount of usual fertilizer to decrease the growth of the plant and change it to one of slow assimilation, which releases the nutrients little by little. In Plantae, you can find two very good options for this: the liquid humus, and a seaweed-based fertilizer.
Isolate your flowerpots
Do you live in a cold area? Do you have pots too big to move to a more sheltered site? Do you simply have an avocado tree or a fig tree that you do not know how your first winter will be? Wrap the flowerpot in bubble wrap! It will protect the roots of frost keeping the soil temperature stable!
Apply a layer of compost or a black agricultural film
I will never tire of spreading the thousand and one advantages of quilting. In summer, it protects the soil from the rays of the sun, decreasing temperature, and evaporation, but in winter it retains the heat of the soil and stabilizes the temperature in the face of sudden changes in the weather. Apply a layer of compost or a black agricultural film as the dark colors of these materials will help attract more sunlight.
Avoid pruning until the risk of frost has passed, this is for the same reason that it is important not to fertilize and water in excess, pruning favors the growth of plants, putting at risk the delicate new shoots that have not yet generated their defenses against the cold.
Place thermal blankets
Well-designed protective walls can be a very powerful weapon against frost and strong northern winds. With them, we managed to create microclimates perfectly suited for the most delicate plants.
Let no one is offended by the novice adjective! I committed myself (and for that we are going to deceive ourselves, some still commit them) errors, and blunders, when I started to sowing my own seeds.
Some are quite obvious, others are tricks that I have seen that facilitate the task to people without experience (ideal also for beginners who begin to collaborate in the garden and for already experts who want to make life a little easier). Here they go!
Top 5 Gardening Mistakes of Sowing
Error 1: The nurseries need a lot of light
Obvious truth? Well it is one of the mistakes that most initiated commit, in which I include myself. When you are sowing indoors, natural light is sometimes not enough (especially in the months of December, January, and February) which is necessary to compensate with some artificial light, the ideal is to use a programmer so you do not forget to Turn the light on and off when you play.
Error 2: The substrate and the fertilizer
The nurseries need very specific humidity conditions: a substrate that is permanently moist but does not become waterlogged. This often causes death by asphyxia of the roots or by fungal or bacterial diseases. The ideal? Using a specific substrate for seedbeds, they are usually lighter due to their porosity, which allows them to function as sponges while avoiding puddles and keeping them aerated. Avoid using soil, as it compacts a lot and also usually contains bacteria and fungi that, for grown plants are innocuous, but for seedbeds can be lethal.
The substrate for seedbeds is also low in nutrients since the seeds have everything necessary to germinate. It is only when they generate their first true leaves when we must apply the fertilizer. You will notice that its growth accelerates! The idea is to use one rich in amino acids or nitrogen (which is responsible for producing those amino acids), this is the most appropriate fertilizer for this stage since it favors the vegetative development.
Error 3: Use too small containers or sets
This is not an error in itself, but it makes the job very difficult. Small seedbeds dry earlier and have less resistance to temperature changes, which can lead to premature death of plants if we are not very careful. Ideally, use individual seedbeds of about 6cm in minimum diameter, retain more water, the roots will develop better and will be more stable in terms of temperature. To give you an idea, the size of a container of yogurt is the minimum necessary.
Error 4: Do not water enough
Another mistake that I sometimes continue to make .. the seedbeds need much more continuous irrigation than the plants already established. Keeping the substrate moist is paramount for good development. A trick that I have learned these years is to use containers of the same size since in this way the periodicity with which they need water is the same. Another tip: put them in a busy room, they are much less easy to forget if you see them!
Error 5: Plant the seeds very deep
Think about the route a seed has to take until it reaches the surface, do not make it harder! There is a fairly simple rule to ensure that we do not bury them too much, the seeds should be buried at a depth 2-3 times their size, so the smaller they are, the shallower they should be.
Do you want to know more sowing tips?
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They are the container where the seeds are planted, they can be plastic, paper or peat. The most important thing when choosing seedbeds is that you use them all of the same sizes so that they make the irrigation task as easy as possible.
Personal recommendation: I, in my urban garden, always use seedbeds that I can transplant together with the plant, that is, biodegradable as peat or paper. By not having to remove them from the pot at the time of transplant, the roots remain protected throughout the process.
Greenhouses – Germinators
The nurseries need a constant and stable temperature and humidity. That is why it is advisable to use germination that maintains these conditions throughout the process.
The seeds should be indicated for the sowing season in which you are (No, it is not worth planting tomatoes in the fall).
Provides fertilizer to the nurseries when they leave the first leaves and a few days before the transplant, will provide strength and vigor to survive the change and thus avoid the transplant shock.
And you? Have you ever made these sowing mistakes? I sincerely believe that I will have committed all of them once … I hope that, if you have not committed any of them, this post will help you avoid them and start your garden with a good start this year.
I love preparing the sowing calendar for this month February, there are many more things. This month begins to be more diverse, and crops such as tomatoes, peppers or zucchini re-enter the plans in temperate climates (in cold climates wait until March better).
The days are lengthening little by little and the crops begin to have more hours of light and grow faster. However, February is also a time when frosts can be frequent and unexpected, so it is important to be cautious. That is why it is very important to know what to plant in February.
What to plant in February in the garden
Winter and spring vegetables
Sowing in seedbed
Sowing in the heated nursery or indoor nursery
You can also try the pre-designed campus packs. They are special for this time of year. Hold the cold well and they will give you continuous harvest while you prepare your spring crops in the seedbed.
What to sow and grow in February
Protect your garden from the cold
Although winter crops, such as beans or cauliflowers, are resistant to low temperatures, when the temperature drops below 0º, things can get ugly. A single day of frost can ruin your harvest. Just enough to prevent a little, be aware of the weather forecast and implement some simple techniques that will make your garden resistant to the latest cold waves this year.
Some techniques to protect the frosted garden:
Cover the plants with thermal blankets or accordion greenhouses.
Place the pots inside the house or inside a greenhouse.
Cover the pots with bubble wrap.
Cover the floor with
Sowing in seedbeds
You can start planting spring crops by sowing indoors or in a heated greenhouse. These crops need a soil temperature of about 20ºC, although the optimum is 25. If you start now with the planting, you can transplant in March, and obtain an earlier harvest. Then you can go back to make a new planting in March or April, so the summer season will be much longer and you can enjoy more time growing crops such as tomatoes, peppers, aubergines, and zucchini.
Choose winter vegetables
Some crops can be grown without problems without any protection, except in the case of frost, as mentioned above. This makes them ideal for this month, so if we have planted in previous months we can enjoy them now. And we are still in time to plant some of these varieties, which will take advantage of the last months of cool temperatures. (Marked with an asterisk in the list below)
These cold resistant crops are:
Lettuce (especially the Roman type) *
If we started with sowing in January we will surely have some plants to transplant. Here are a few tips to ensure that the cold does not end with the delicate seedlings:
In the case of tomatoes or other delicate crops, it is not convenient to transplant them outdoors yet, if they have become too large for their seedbeds, transplant them to an intermediate pot that you can have inside for a while longer. After the frosts, we can place them in their final location.
For transplants on land- if we have planted onion seedlings or lettuce, for example – the idea is to prepare the soil a little by applying a natural, compost-type, or dark plastic mulch. The color factor is important since dark shades absorb solar radiation better and keep the soil warmer. Having prepared an accordion greenhouse or greenhouses made with plastic bottles can be of great help for these young crops.
If you have a fruit tree February is the ideal month to prune it, since the buds will start to come out strong when spring arrives.
Let me guess, a thick branch that is high from the ground needs to get cut right away. And you’ve given a thought about playing the game with your pruning saw, but understood that it can’t help you regarding this matter (unless you’re not planning to use a ladder). This is when a pole saw will emerge as a friend of yours.
But wait, that new friend of yours can call in danger if not used properly, you know that?
This piece is intended to teach you How to Cut A Large Tree Branch with Pole Saw properly, trying to cut a tall tree branch, and keep yourself safe in the process.
Now, as I mentioned earlier, this process is not a kids’ game, it can get dangerous. The cut branch can fall on yourself, power line around can because accidents and other risks are involved. So to start off, we should go through the cautions first, don’t u think?
How to Cut A Large Tree Branch with Pole Saw even if you are a novice!
Cautions About Using a Pole Saw:
You should never work on a branch having any part above a power line, sit this one out, call in a professional in these cases.
Using pole saws is a pretty slow and tiring process, especially with extensions to get above 8 feet. Pole saws are likely to be used on limbs up to 1.5-2 inches thick.
Do not attempt to fell branches overhead, as I guess you are not too familiar with this!
You should always have safety gear on, a helmet is must (This is the best to have), even better if you can put on other gears.
Using the Pole Saw to Cut the Branch:
Okay, it’s time to get in the main process. I hope you’ve made sure that there is no risks involved, the limb is not going to fall on you, no electric wires are involved, and you’ve safety gear on.
Clear a large work area first. There should be nothing in the area, or close to the area where the branch is likely to fall. You also need to have a plan to move quickly and safely in the area if anything goes wrong.
Plan the cut. Firstly, locate the branch collar (where the branch joins the stem). Cut the lower branches before moving on to higher branches, if you are to cut both branches.
Position The Saw. You need to move and place the saw outside the branch collar. Bring the pole saw to a vertical position using both your hands, pause a little bit resting its weight on the branch, now reposition it to the cutting spot. The saw should be positioned at an angle with the branch, the more angled it will be, the easier it’ll be for you to cut it. And the lengthier the pole is, means the farther you can go horizontally from the branch, it’ll be more angled and easier to cut for you. So if you any option to lengthen the pole, do it.
Position yourself. You want to stand in a place where the end of the pole should be at your chest level. So, find yourself a position where the end of the pole would be at your chest level and the saw would be positioned as much angled possible to the branch.
Start the strokes. Make the first strokes slowly, try to make a groove. Cut perpendicular so that primary strokes bite as much as possible. The groove will guide you in the coming faster strokes. Expect the saw to slip sideways at early strokes, more if the branch is sloped. When this happens, give a little pause, don’t keep stroking which goes nowhere, wasting your energy. Rather stop, reposition, and start stroking again.
Keep stroking. Once the saw is positioned well in the groove you may increase your stroke speed for deeper cuts. Pole saws cut on the pull strokes to get helped by gravity. Don’t take your eyes off while stroking, especially when it’s about to get cut and fall. Though if you took my earlier suggestions, you’ll not be standing in a position where it might fall upon you, still, be safe and aware enough to move.
Hooray, it’s done. Pat yourself on back. If anything unpleasant didn’t happen, the branch is supposed to get cut. Keep on replicating the process for the rest of the branches. Before moving to the next branch, clean up the fallen limb and work area to make sure not to get tripped by it.
Some More Tips:
The better you position yourself, the less tiring it would be to cut the branch. Positioning is important. If the pole is adjustable, try to adjust it to the best comfortable position.
Try to it in full daylight. I’ll suggest doing it in anytime from 10 am – 4 pm. The time just before the afternoon is great I think, as that time is not too hot, the air flow is there along with full daylight.
You want to have a Sharp saw to make the process not too tiresome.
Remember not to cut the collar. Make a superficial cut just outside the branch collar but do not cut into the branch collar.
It’s not a good practice to prune more than 1/4th of a tree’s living branch at the same time. Try not to top the crown as it can harm the growth of the tree.
Last but not least, Do NOT stand under the branch while removing branches to avoid falling it on you.
So, there you have it. I hope by following these step-by-step instructions and tips, you can remove the unwanted branches nicely and safely. If you have any question regarding the process, you may leave them in the comment below. I’ll get back to you as soon as possible.
You can also mention if you have any further suggestions. I’ll try to update the post How to Cut A Large Tree Branch with Pole Saw with your suggestion giving the credit to you.
Spring is the season of new life, florals, and great weather. But not all look forward to this time of the year. In Fact, How to Grow An Allergy Free Garden despite the inviting weather and natural beauties in our gardens and park, there are some who stay inside awaiting the next season. Hayfever has afflicted almost all of us at one time or another, and the garden is usually always the culprit.
Find out how to get ahead of your pollen problems and grow an allergy free garden.
Keep your lawn in check
You may not think the lawn will turn on you in Spring, but your grass holds a lot of the pollen that floats around the air. Ever had a play on the grass with your pet or child and then stood completely sniffly and red-nosed? Keeping your lawn healthy with irrigation supplies by SunshowerOnline will keep it in top shape, and will allow you to mow it more often to take the length of the grass and remove the chance of pollen getting caught up.
It goes without saying that you should look to see if someone else can mow your lawn during this hayfever period. The irrigation system will also be wetting your grass every day so the pollen isn’t building and lying in wait. Time your yard activities around the watering so that you can play on freshly dry grass.
Sorry folks, if hay fever hits you hard then you may want to think twice about which plants you have in your yard. You can still pick the ones you like, but you should be picking from a hayfever-free plant list. Think shrubs, ferns, and good old cacti.
As it happens, these plants are in season all year round so you are choosing greenery that will serve you through each season. If you can’t possibly walk away from those stunning flowers that you have been eying off at the nursey, find a space in your garden that you can plant them that is far from the house and in amongst your other plants.
Less green, more texture
A few decades ago it would have been blasphemy t consider a garden that wasn’t anything but grass, plants, and flowers. These days? It’s not out of turn to see marble, wood, stone, and bark in front and back gardens.
Depending on the severity of your allergies, you may want to consider cutting all the risk and having a design-led and mixed textured garden. This setting actually makes entertaining quite easy so there is a dual benefit. But most importantly, it allows you to be outside in the elements without having to cover your face or sneeze immediately.
Make it purposeful
Hayfever is unfortunately not going anywhere. So, maybe it’s time to look at your allergy-free garden in a new light. Instead of being a place for plants to grow and bloom, why not also make it a place where you can seek nourishment from. Planting a fruit and vegetable garden will bypass any obligation you may feel to fill it with other greenery, and you will more than benefit from the fruits of your labor.
There is so much to love about those warmer months. It’s a shame that we can’t all anticipate Spring and then spend the months garden-bound. Fortunately, there are ways to make your allergy free garden experience an enjoyable one that won’t render you out of action. It all comes down to research and having a little bit of creativity, and there is no need to sacrifice style and preference too much.
Choosing patio furniture that will last in time and follow our desires, it is sometimes difficult. What questions should one ask oneself in order not to be mistaken and to create a cozy and functional outdoor living room?
5 Essential Patio Furniture Buying Guide to Follow:
Choosing garden furniture material
The question of the material is paramount when one chooses the patio furniture. We are tempted to yield to trends, but it is better to think long-term and opt for a solid material, which will withstand time as well as weather.
Avoid colorful plastic patio furniture, which would not spend the summer sun. Also, think about the time you want to spend on maintaining your furniture. Wood requires more attention than metal, more durable – and found in pop colors if you crave color.
In the same way, choose materials that you will not get tired of and that will not be damaged. The braided resin is quite resistant and gives a cozy side, garden furniture. When you mix the materials, also try to keep a coherence in the whole.
Building on a sustainable patio furniture
To choose the right patio furniture, you need to think sustainable. Choose your garden furniture as your interior furniture: bet on its longevity. For that, two important criteria: the choice of a solid material and a style that will not tire you.
Prefer to invest a little more to buy furniture that will last longer rather than choosing the first price. You will see, summers moving at high-speed, you will be delighted to have opted for a natural color rather than a bright red that you will not enjoy next summer.
In addition, you will always have the opportunity to refresh your outdoor decoration by changing outdoor carpets, cushions or candles. For furniture, however, think sustainable because its cost is higher.
Choosing patio furniture to fit your needs
We all dream of having the complete panoply of beautiful outdoor furniture. However, there is no point in investing in a large table for dinner if you are rather lemonade and taste with your friends in the afternoon simple patio furniture with the coffee table will suffice.
If on the other hand, the summer barbecues with all the neighbors are customary, a big table is essential. Conversely, you may want to sunbathe but, without a pool around which to settle, maybe a fireside chair, a sofa or a garden bench is enough to install a reading corner, to the shadow of a shade sail to protect yourself from the sun.
Before buying your outdoor furniture, ask yourself what are your real needs. However, listen to your desires as well. Nothing forbids you to install a deckchair on your mini-balcony if that’s what you dream of.
Create a sitting area
You may feel that it is not a must and yet … The relaxation area is a must-have in the garden, so you can enjoy the beautiful weather outside, without being satisfied with taste or meal.
Depending on your garden and the possibilities available to you, create a relaxation area that suits you. If you have a pool, install some sunbeds and a few coffee tables, why not floor cushions.
If you like to sit on the grass, put a pergola to shelter from the sun and create a cozy corner with an outdoor sofa, some cushions, some sun loungers. The garden is also a very comfortable place to rest.
If you are lucky enough to have one, always invest it keeping in mind that this relaxation area requires a real budget.
Listening to your desires Decor
Finally, to create the outdoor lounge of your dreams, you must listen to your desires and follow your inspirations in terms of decoration. Want to retro, pop, classic? If you fancy a wooden table to share your breakfasts and barbecues, listen to yourself, even if it will require more maintenance than its metal neighbor.
If you wish to opt for mismatched chairs, Do not deprive yourself. Always keep in mind the first elements to take into account: think sustainable, solid, useful … but also think according to your tastes.
You do not change every day of envy, if you are sure you do not get tired of this style of outdoor furniture, go for it! The advantage of the patio furniture is that even if it is neutral, it is as easily embellished as indoor furniture: some cushions, a plaid, a tray, a pretty plant … and outside transforms according to trends.
When choosing garden furniture, these are mistakes not to commit. This patio furniture buying guide will help for those who want a garden lounge that looks like them for the coming summer.
Once the nice warm weather hits, adults and kids want to be outside enjoying it. These are some fun and educational activities that you can start doing a garden project for school with your kids.
8 tips to share on a garden project for school with kids involvement.
Paint a Birdhouse
Making a birdhouse is a great starter project for you to get your family and kids into woodworking. But even if you don’t build it yourself, you can still get a blank canvas birdhouse and let your kids help decorate them.
Painting is a really fun exercise for kids and since the project will end up outside any way you don’t have to be overly concerned about the finished product.
Starter Seeds in Egg Shells
If you love the egg carton seed starter then you must try using egg shells as seed starters. Using eggs shells as the seed starter is great because it offers many benefits to your plants.
Egg shells can be planted right in the soil once the plant is big enough to be moved into the garden. The shell itself add calcium to your soil which is great for certain plants that need it to grow.
Make Cheerio’s Bird Feeder
Find fun ways to treat the birds around your home with a kid friendly Cheerio bird feeder. It’s super easy to make, string cheerios on pipe cleaners and then fasten the pipe cleaner off.
You can bend the pipe cleaners into fun shapes like a heart or triangle. Then you will connect three of these cheerio filled shapes together and hang it on a tree for the birds to enjoy.
Build a Pallet Flowerbox
Pallets are usually free and easy to find around your neighborhood. And, by putting one out in your backyard on the ground, you have the beginnings of a great little flowerbox that you kids can plant and tend to.
Fill the gaps in with dirt, and help your children plant flowers in between the wood slats. For bonus points, stain or paint your pallet wood before you add the dirt. This will help your wood to last longer outdoors.
Create an Egg Carton Greenhouse
This is a great way for you to teach your kids about starting seeds for a garden and it is a much cheaper seed starting option than the plastic containers sold in stores. All you need is some dirt, seeds and an egg carton.
Cut the top off of the egg carton.
Fill the egg carton with dirt and place seeds in.
Use a spray bottle to lightly mist the dirt.
Cover the egg carton with a clear plastic wrap to create the greenhouse effect.
Place the egg carton in a window seal or warm sunny place.
It’s best to use the cardboard type of egg carton since this one is biodegradable and able to be planted into the ground once the seedlings are ready. Using clear plastic wrap over the egg carton will create the greenhouse growing effect for this fun craft.
Paint Garden Pots
Add some color to your potted plants when you let your kids decorate standard terra cotta pots. They can paint it their favorite colors, add designs or for older kids they can paint what will be planted inside of it, like herbs and spices.
DIY Popsicle Plant Labels
These are super easy and fun to make. Attach two vertical popsicle sticks to two horizontal popsicle sticks. Glue them together and write the plant name on the two horizontal sticks, then stick them in the ground.
Create a Lady Bug Motel
Lady bugs are a must have if you are into organic gardening, since they eat tiny mites and other pests that can get into your fresh veggies. Making a lady bug motel is pretty easy, you will need the building supplies to make an open-faced bird house and then various sized bamboo sticks that will go into the open front of the house. Let your kids help by painting the lady bug motel and helping find and gather lady bugs to add to it.
Finding fun ways to teach your kids about the outdoors and gardening can seem like a difficult task, due to short term attention spans. However, when you make it fun by adding in painting, the kids will be able to make fun crafts and learn more about the garden project for school.
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